The Porcelain Pillar area, which is overlooked by most climbers, has a selection of very fine traditionally protected moderate mixed lines. The namesake route, Porcelain Pillar, is one of the best moderate mixed pitches in the Northeast.
Approach
Approach time: 15 minutes
The Playground and all other areas on the East Side, except East Crag, can be approached the same way. From the parking at Notch Lake cross Route 214 and hike up the steps, following the trail for 10 meters. Look for an old road grade to your left. Follow this road grade, and when you’re directly beneath the visible ice pillars at the Playground hike straight up hill. Like all areas in Stony Clove, one should use caution on the approach. It’s easy to take a long bumpy slide on the steep slopes below the cliffs.
To get to Porcelain Pillar walk left 50 meters from the Playground. The area is easily identifiable by locating the two ice flows that end in a rock band halfway up the cliff.
Routes at Porcelain Pillar area
- Porcelain Pillar, WI4+ M4
Perhaps the best moderate mixed climb in Stony Clove, Porcelain Pillar has challenging ice climbing followed by secure and well-protected mixed climbing. Climb the overhanging ice pillar for 30' to a stance. Continue up the shallow corner above, climbi...
- East Side Slab, WI3+ M5
Follow ice through a bulge and up a slab to a rock ledge. Traverse right along the ledge, being careful with loose rock, to the crack in the bulge above. Hand jams, turf shots and hooks will get you through the bulge and into the trees. Rock rack to 2".
- Chock and Balls, M5
Ascend the large, mostly dry right-facing corner left of East Side Slab. At the chockstone above exit left on secure hooks with small edges for your feet. The easy climbing below the crux is hard to protect. Rock rack to 3" and a specter.
- T'aint Ice, M6
Ascend thin cracks and horizontals near the left side of the arete left of Chock and Balls. Fun, mostly dry climbing. Rock rack to 3" with extra small cams and a few Lost Arrow and Knifeblade pins.
- Scraptastic, WI3 M3
Fun climbing up the large right facing corner at the end of the Porcelain Pillar wall. Ascend icy chimneys and corners to a ledge just below the cliff top. Rock rack to 3", extra 10cm screws.